This season, rather than writing, I have been working for James Long, in preparation for a press and buyers presentation, as well as a trip to Paris. Over five days I did everything from pick up previous season jackets from the incredible PR building, to weaving the final pieces to the collection, to doing a dry cleaning run. The excitement that goes on behind the scenes in a design house is second to none, and while it may have been a hectic few days, I was super sad to be leaving.
But I still managed to keep up with the incredible shows and presentations going on across London within other design houses, and this year London certainly didn't disappoint. I've rounded up my favourite collections for you to pour over yourselves. Let me know what you think!
I fell in love with J JS Lee the second I saw her collection. The smart fabrics, the beautifully clean lines and the impeccably tailored separates made me swoon. Where other designers opted for high vis print and eccentric shapes, J JS Lee favoured a smarter, cleaner approach, with a clear nod to 80's power dressing. There were welcome splashes of honey pinks and vivd aqua marines but black and white were at the core of the collection. My absolute favourite is the little black dress, with a leather twist. Gimme!
Next came Holly Fulton. A designer renowned for her bold ideas and even bolder prints, and this season didn't disappoint. While her collection may have been busy and a little dizzy at times, Fulton has really matured as a designer. This season saw her really celebrate colour, and a real seventies bohemian vibe poured from each thread of the denim patterned separates and floral dresses. The trapeeze dress also made a welcome comeback, a shape dominating catwalks across LFW. Definitely an investment I'll be making for next summer.
David Koma is the marmite of the fashion world, some love him, some hate him, some don't know what to put him with. But how anyone cannot marvel at his collection of structural monochrome. Again referencing the eighties with asymmetrical structure and mesh inserts, power dressing is well and truly back for S/S 14. And with celebrity clients such as Beyonce and Kylie Minogue, it is no wonder Koma likes to dress a powerful woman
There's few people in the fashion business who don't love Mary Katrantzou. It's hard to believe she exploded into the fashion industry ten seasons ago now. And her ethos hasn't changed a bit. Her dedication to eclectic patters and daring prints has paved the way for new designers challenging the boundaries in the fashion world. And while she shocked last season with a more mellow, grungier side to the house, the old Katrantzou is back for S/S 14. My stand out piece has to be the structured lilac trapeze dress. Everything about it recognises the true genius in Mary Katrantzou... and who can resist that bandeau frill?!
And who better to close London Fashion Week than Burberry? Any fashion show that boasts Anna Wintour, Harry Styles and Sienna Miller in its frow is bound to be a success, and Christopher Bailey certainly was. With a firm 1920's inspiration came intricate pastel lace and delicate embellishment, showing the shyer side to the design house, a femininity that Bailey, who has headed the design house as chief creative director since 2009, has always tried to push with Burberry. And who wouldn't love that gorgeous outerwear!
